Mt. Bachelor, Bend, OR

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Martha skiing to the Eurovan!

After a filling homemade pancakes and eggs feast we headed to Mt. Bachelor. It would be one of those storm days where it’s hard to know where you are. Lifts were affected by high winds. We found one upper mountain lift that served some long runs with some treed options. We spend the day here, lapping this lift over and over, sampling varied runs left right of it. The snow deepened each run. Finally, our legs sore, we made our way down to front face and down to the parking lot. We were able to ski right to the van! This was the only photo op of the day given the low visibility above. We then headed down to grab some appetizers and a drink at the Pine Tavern, an old inn by the DeChutes. My friend Dave Rathbun, now COO of Mt. Bachelor met us in town at the local brewery and we caught up along with Doug LaPlaca, formerly of Steamboat, CO who now runs the local tourism association ‘Visit Bend’.  Martha and I then headed to dinner at Zydeco, a trendy place on Bond street. After an exhausting day, it was nice to retreat back to the B&B to get some sleep and ready for the next morning’s trip to Sun Valley. 

Bend, OR

Monday, March 14, 2011

On the way into Bend, we arrived from the side of town that brought us through the strip malls and big box stores. We began to wonder why others told us this place was so special. When we headed into town for dinner at 5 Fusion, a new sushi restaurant. We then found the downtown area by the DeChutes River. Now we were seeing the charm. Although it was getting dark, we could see why our family members who had previously visited raved. We imagined what this area would be like in the summer. 

We had reserved a lovely B&B called Cabin Creek on the outskirts of town. This three-room home was well laid out with fireplaces and jetted-tubs in each. Owners Melody and Dave greeted us warmly and quickly explained house rules as well as the breakfast schedule. We retired to our suite for a nice relaxing evening in front of the fire and a movie on the computer. 

Klamath Falls to Bend, OR

"Honey... I'm home!"

Monday, March 14, 2011

Hopes for a hike around Crater Lake dashed by the snow!

The next morning we pointed the van toward Crater Lake, thinking of some trail hiking around the crater’s rim before our intended destination of Bend. After a coffee stop in a small college town, we climbed up into the park. The travel took us through a lot of open space, scrub pine, sandy areas and open vistas, when clouds allowed us a view. Soon we began to see signs for Crater Lake, and soon the snow banks developed along the roadside. First a foot, then three, and eventually eight to twelve feet, towering over the van. So ended our hopes for a hike! We wound our way up to the Lake, following a narrow slot in the growing snow banks known as the road. We were fortunate enough to follow a plow for the final ascent. We continued higher up into the park until finally the road ended at an old hotel, reminiscent of the Timberline Lodge of The Shining fame. 

We parked at the turnaround and were told by a park ranger that we could scramble up the snow bank path for a view of the Lake. We were glad we did, it was amazing, and quite the snowy setting. Soon other tourists arrived, some American, others foreign, including a school group out for a Nordic ski into the back country. Onward to Bend!

Road trip: Reno to Klamath Falls, OR

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Martha arrived at Reno airport on the 11:10 AM (one-stop, no plane change from Albany) and we loaded her gear into the Eurovan and headed toward Oregon. Our goal was Klamath Falls in time for dinner and a hotel. We arrived in Klamath in a downpour. It was raining so hard that if you were not underneath the portico, you’d be soaked. We checked into our room and decided on a steakhouse in the old downtown. After one wrong turn proclaimed by the GPS, we got straightened out and on the right street. The downtown area was cute, and being a Sunday night, we were about the only party in the restaurant, a few others finished up their meals as we walked in giving us some assurance that we weren’t about to make a big mistake. Our waiter was chatty and full of suggestions. Our meals were wonderful. Mine was the best steak I’ve had in years. Truly. A quiet dining experience in a somewhat-strange town was a nice way for Martha and I to become reacquainted! 

Squaw Valley routes

Skiing on Thursday, March 10, 2011

After 7 am yoga class in The Village at Squaw, I decided to head to the mountain for some morning runs given the wind of the previous night and the promise of windbuff on Headwall. I boarded the Funitel and met up with El Furtney from Snowsports School, and Todd, a fellow ski pro. We decided that Headwall was the choice, but taking the Tower 16 chute route on the way down. We took off toward the Broken Arrow area with El leading the way. This was a completely new route to the Headwall lift for me, so I followed and tried my best to keep up. 

Sunday Valley Serenade

Snowboarding on Sunday, February 27, 2011

Sunday morning arrived and I had planned to explore Dollar Mountain on my Burton Method snowboard. I drove the 2 or so miles, parked right at the lodge and joined into the multigenerational swarms that were enjoying their Sunday morning on the slopes and around Carol’s Dollar Mountain Lodge. Dollar is the family mountain of the two that comprise Sun Valley. Oddly, Dollar Mountain is completely tree-less and was where the original ski trails were built in Sun Valley in the 30’s. Dollar is also adorned by a few SPT terrain parks, built by Chris Gunnarson of X-Games feature-building fame. I wish Parker were with me to truly evaluate the scene, but to my untrained eye, these parks appeared to have great flow and I noticed one of the features at the bottom had the ability to be lit from within for nighttime fun. On this morning it was clear, somewhat windy and quite cold, temperatures certainly below 10 degrees F. I took maybe 6 or 7 runs, explored the face and the flanks and then headed to Baldy (the treed mountain with little above treeline) to ride for the afternoon.  

Roundhouse Restaurant @ 1936

After a few long runs (and I mean lo-o-ong) on Baldy it was getting well past lunchtime, so I took the stairs up to the Roundhouse, the original on-mountain lodge at Sun Valley, and likely the original on-mountain lodge anywhere in that day. Built in 1936, the inside, much like the people, was rustic, yet well-preserved. The center fireplace is warm and inviting. There was an older gentleman dressed in lederhosen playing the accordion with snippets of tunes from the Sound of Music. Lunch is Bavarian style, specializing in fondue, racclette, with steak and salads adorning the menu choices. This was probably the first time I have 'dined' in snowboard boots. Quite nice, actually. I was as comfortable as my surrounds. It was nice to relax and watch the multi-generational families come in for some fun. Many were not skiers, but rather rode the gondola up from River Run base for a special treat at 8,200 feet overlooking all of Sun Valley's expanse below.

River Run Lodge

My late afternoon was spent on Baldy, riding the long (did I say long?) vertical runs up and down from the Warm Springs side. True to the name, there is a river or creek running through this base area fed by warm, sulphur springs that give off that eau de rotten eggs smell. To the uninitiated, I'm sure the septic systems for the condos around the base are suspect!

The late afternoon on the Warm Springs patio was delightful as the sun dropped below Baldy. A live band played some contemporary folk-rock tunes and families and couples gradually dissipated back to their hovels or their cars. Once the warm sun drops behind Baldy, it's a whole new feeling. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr. 

A late afternoon snack of Salmon at Warm Springs Lodge was just the ticket after a long day on the mountains of Sun Valley. On food, they do it right. Quite a special treat, very complete and satisfying for just $11. It made me wonder why more ski resorts don't offer this type of healthy fare.  I realize it helps to have an executive chef with  passion and desire to produce a plate like this, and it probably takes special preparation that most resorts are not equipped to handle, but this was quite a value, one I won't soon forget. See, I'm already telling others! 

Chilled Salmon fillet, dill sauce, green beans, grape tomatoes, fresh berries, hot cocoa - $11 

And as I was leaving, I ran into Picabo Street!

I headed to the original Sun Valley Lodge and the Opera House to catch the 4:30 showing of Sun Valley Serenade. Very timely and appropriate. Following the film, I headed to my room in the Lodge to catch up on this blog. While of very high quality, just like the fit and finish of Sun Valley's day lodges, the furnishings are a bit too formal to engage today’s traveler. Fine quality, but frumpy and austere, as if grandma decorated in her taste. Queen Anne, I dunno. Perhaps for a year-round resort such as Sun Valley, this is fine, but as a skier I had that feeling that I might accidentally break something. There was a flat screen 1080p mounted to the wall above a credenza that hosted a gaming station, coffee maker, safe, and some cabinets for personal belongings. While all very comfortable, I don’t think the thirtysomething family with small kids from Seattle or the Bay Area would be all too comfortable staying here. Their parents maybe… 

When you're ready to treat yourself, head for Sun Valley, Idaho. You won't be disappointed... I sure wasn't!

“It happened in Sun Valley”

Skiing on Saturday, February 26, 2011

Mt. Baldy from Dollar Mountain

I’ve always wanted to visit Sun Valley. The allure of a resort with so much history and heritage beckoned me. Sun Valley has been on my dance card for 20 years and as I get another year older the dance card is becoming a bucket list. I can hear Warren Miller shouting out to me from his old Airstream trailer in the parking lot at Sun Valley, “Ski it now Scott, because if you don’t, you’ll be another year older when you do.” 

From Park City to Sun Valley is about a 5-1/2 hour trek west on I-84 to north on I-15 to Highway 75. I hit the road about 5:45 am on Saturday. Once down from Parley’s Canyon on I-80 traveling around Salt Lake was fairly easy but for tractor trailers and the single cleared lane on I-15. These two factors probably added 45 minutes to the trip. Once off the interstate I travelled through farm land, prairies and changing landscapes, often wondering if I was approaching mountains or not. It was cloudy and therefore long-range visibility was limited to maybe a mile. Eventually the foothills up into the Sawtooth range appeared to the west, along with highway signs mentioning Sun Valley at various mileage intervals. The first town coming into the valley was Bellevue, fairly unremarkable. Then Hailey which has a population of about 6,500. Cute homes, neighborhoods and a long view of the mountain ridge immediately to the west. Once in Hailey, the sun was shining brightly. I had entered 'the donut' as I was later to learn. 

Sun Valley's iconic barn

From there into Ketchum and Sun Valley was just a dozen miles. There’s a certain excitement about snow-covered mountains on a sunny day, promising recreation opportunities and experiences to get me salivating. Once in Ketchum, the lifts at Bald Mtn. were clearly visible with long bump runs plunging into the river. How to reach them was not very clear. Soon I found myself at the junction of Main and Sun Valley Road. A right turn brought me the two miles into Sun Valley. Another intersection at Saddle, and a chose a left to head out to Warm Springs, the furthest outreaches of Bald Mountain and the entry to Sawtooth National Recreation Area (USFS). Now having looped the town, I headed back to the River Run base on the southern end of the resort where I parked and opted for a little skiing. It was a perfect afternoon, not too cold, not too warm. Just right for scooting around and learning a new ski area. I stayed with my policy of sticking to groomers and getting the lay of the land, spanning River Run to Warm Springs, stopping into each lodge, taking in the view, and summing up the place. The facilities are fairly unbelievable, way over the top for what one would expect. Almost to the point where you’re not sure that ski boots are welcomed in the ski lodges. Oriental carpets grace the floors, gilded wall sconces, and furniture that’s on the formal side for ski area dining. 

Soon the day ended and it was time to explore the town of Ketchum. Going on a recommendation, I had dinner at The Sawtooth Club, a steak house very similar to the Sirloin Saloon restaurants of Vermont. Enjoyable, nice surrounds, average steak. From there to the Best Western Tyrolienne lodge for a solid 9 hours of sleep.